DON’T SAY ITโS NOT THAT DEEP IF WE NEVER WEAR OUR HAIR OUT. I AM IN THE BUSINESS OF EVERYTHING BEING โTHAT DEEP.โ
***
I have SO much to say about afro hair. When people discuss the topic online I feel very inspired to contribute my thoughts, so writing will help me get them all out. This post will use my personal journey to address all things afro hair โ past, present and future. I’ve added pictures (non-chronologically) for reference, and affordable product recommendations at the end. If you have afro hair, this is for you. There will certainly be something in this piece that resonates.
Part 1 – My journey and formative years
I have always enjoyed the feeling of a slight tug or fingers on my scalp as my hair is washed, though I know that puts some people off if they have a sensitive scalp. The earliest memories I have of my hair are the stereotypical ones, my mum braiding my hair after church every other Sunday right after my older sister, sometimes in traditional Nigerian styles like suku. I found it so fun and relaxing to get my hair done. (Pictured: Sister left, mum centre, me right)

This was back in primary school, and I didn’t feel out of place with these styles. The times where I did feel envious of other girlsโ hair was when I saw it had been relaxed. Stiff and brown as it may have been, I did imagine to myself what it would be like to have hair that just went down instead of up. Itโs only later in my life that I began appreciating the fact that afro hair defies gravity.
I remember the first time I got weave. It was in primary school too. To be honest it was quite off brand for my mum, since she always gave my sister and I plaits/cornrows. But my main recollection of this is the weave being so itchy that we both had it removed the next day. After that, tracks didnโt touch my hair until year 11 promโฆ weโll get to that. But generally speaking, having afro hair wasnโt a source of shame for me. I liked it. I felt like my hair was long and healthy, and as a child that was enough for me.
Secondary school
By year seven my mum grew tired of doing our hair, so she began paying a hairdresser to give us braids instead. I wasnโt mad at it. Braids felt a bit more suitable for secondary school, and hair โsuitingโ your age is something Black women tend to consider. But by the time I was 12 I began looking after my own hair, so secondary school is where Iโd say my story truly begins. While I acknowledge that I didnโt have solely negative messaging about my hair from the day I landed on earth, the styles I had still paved way for insecurity in my teens. This is because I didnโt know what a high-tension style was, and it showed. I would tug my braids into a variety of styles that did nothing but pull on my edges. From single plaits in a tight half up half down to Ghana weave that lifted follicles at my temples, I didnโt understand that styling my braids was affecting me. I remember one nightmare moment, where I caught the front of a Ghana weave plait in a badminton net during P.E, causing it to rip at the front. Pain! And whenever I had braids I kept them in for too long and watched follicles show up along my hairline, my confidence in showing my edges dwindling. I noticed them getting thinner, especially at my temples. And I was only a teenager.
However, despite that, I still had moments where embraced what I saw in the mirror. Credit is due to my immersion in the natural hair movement of the 2010s. What a time. I spent hours watching older Black women (mostly American) on YouTube explaining their hair regimen and giving advice for growing healthy and long hair. But I was a teenager with no money, so the products they recommended werenโt in my reach. The closest I got to it was buying Eco Styler gel and coconut oil. At some point, I even used baby oil because to me at the time, oil was oil right? Thatโs all I could manage. I learnt how to do Bantu knots and braid outs, even though my hair was not as thick and long as the women in the videos I was watching.
By doing this from a young age I essentially experienced exposure therapy. I took a plunge into doing my hair, accepting any outcome and going to school with it for chunks of time in between braided hairstyles. From a struggle bunch that was the size of a golf ball to the same style but with a quiff, it truly paid off. But donโt get it twisted โ even though I would get compliments on how โsoftโ it was because people loved to touch it, I still compared myself to girls with looser textures, longer hair and access to a wider range of products. (Video from 2016)
Moreover, I was teased for it too, by different people. I remember having my hair out in an afro one day. I’d used a pick to comb it right out and gone to school. During a lesson I went to the toilet and found two white girls in there. When they saw me and my hair, they burst out laughing. It could have been a destroying moment but for some reason I took it on my chin and used the toilet without acknowledging them. In my heart I felt hurt. But it was the kind of hurt you feel as a Black person when you experience racism then ask yourself why you are even surprised. By purely existing we are exposed to prejudice and poor treatment. The girls did just what I would have expected them to do. But unfortunately, it wasnโt just them. There were two Black girls in my form class that I always chatted with. When I showed up in an afro all they could do was question why I would even dare to do that. The second time I did it, they sighed, truly irritated with me for wearing my hair that way. Looking back, I think they may have found it embarrassing since we were all Black girls. Maybe they didnโt want to be represented in that way as depending on who you were/are exposed to, wearing your afro hair out is not cool. And that applies to this day. You may be someone who loves their hair for what it is but many women are not in that position because of their circle. Regardless, Black women are accustomed to their hair being a problem for others across the board.
You can tell from how I write that hair has always excited me. I learned to braid when I was really young and my first career ambition was to become a hairdresser. But not everyone is passionate about hair this way. Thatโs why simple styles are important. (Pic from Nov 2025)

I adhere to a puff. Itโs my go-to to this day. I just braid or twist my hair, and the next day I take it out and pull it above my head.
Some women hate sitting in the salon chair and others do not want to lose an extra 30 minutes of sleep to do their hair in the morning, which is fine. So what I lobby for is for people with afro hair to have a style they are happy with and keep it as a staple. Due to our hair’s versatility we are too bogged down by the range of styles we can wear. We are very accustomed to being bored by the same style. But if we just chose a simple one to stick to, there would be less substitution with styles that mimic other textures, and less stress surrounding general hair styling.
Part 2 – Critique and afro hair in practice
Note: I know that there is less for me to unlearn about afro hair because I did not internalise every harmful rhetoric about it growing up. I also understand that there are a plethora of reasons why some Black women do not wear their natural hair out. Iโll get to that.
Thin edges
Itโs not like we donโt have products for this very issue, but in my opinion this is the reason why we end up covering our hair a lot, and itโs not spoken about enough. High tension styling can lead to thinning and hair loss along our hairlines. Ironically I see loads of comments citing every other reason for not wearing afro hair out, but edgelessness is scarcely one of them. If we are unhappy with not having edges, we may wear styles that cover them up. But these styles are hardly ever follicle-friendly. So, the cycle continues.
Protective styling (particularly with any form of extension) is not always protective, let’s be real. Gluing a lace wig to your head and catching delicate edge hairs in the removal process can pull your edges out. Knotless braids can rip your edges out. Normal braids can rip your edges out โ from the follicle (Iโve been there). Ponytails and slick back styles can pull your edges out. Tight plaits/cornrows can rip your edges out. Any type of heavy style can rip them out. You may have experienced the horror of extreme hair loss following these styles – your hair feeling dry and thin at the ends, heat damaged and brittle. Something just doesn’t feel right after the takedown. But you know what keeps your hair and edges safe? Not touching them at all!

I acknowledge that is difficult when you want to lay your edges and style them in a certain way, especially for a slick look. But how necessary is it for our hair to be slick anyway? The truth is the hairline thrives the most when it is left alone, inferring that we need to leave our edges/hair in a state that does not require them to be tugged at all. (Pic from Dec 2025)
Then we can wait and see the efficacy of the products we are using to grow them back. They are redundant if we are not allowing our hair to breathe and rest. Over time we can reach a point of confidence with our edges and low-tension styling. It takes boldness to do this. How bold would you dare you be?
I canโt cover this topic without mentioning alopecia, or traction alopecia, which of course the previous paragraphs do not pertain to. Some people suffer from irreversible hair loss due to health conditions, or irreversible effects of high-tension styling. That’s not who I am addressing here. There remain treatments for some solvable cases, such as PRP injections and hair transplants to restore hair confidence. I am not against any of those solutions, in fact, specifically because it may inspire people to wear their hair out more, I would encourage it provided you can afford it. But in the meantime, it is not worth getting stuck in the catch-22 of covering or tugging at the hairline if your goal is regrowth. We must leave our hair alone and treat it with tenderness.
Straight hair
I wore straight hear for my year 11 prom. Premium Too. Synthetic, Colour 4. Leave out. Imagine the sight! Part of me was overjoyed that I could try out a style that I really wanted despite being happy with my afro. But it was a struggle – the hairdresser didnโt leave out enough hair and the texture certainly didnโt match mine. Maintaining it was therefore difficult and I didnโt wear straight hair again until second year of uni, when I tried out my first straight wig. Another error. I bought the bundles and sewed it myself – a process that I really enjoyed. But my expertise in wigs was capped in comparison to natural hair, and I felt really insecure wearing the wig. Of course you could argue that I wouldnโt have felt that way if it was styled better, and part of me would agree. But I wore the wig for less than a week, then switched back to braids.

I think seeing myself with a texture that was different from my own just didnโt make me feel confident. It was around his time that my desire to be the best version of my natural self really came to life. I didnโt want to be more confident with someone elseโs texture on my head instead of my own. (Pic from Nov 2023)
There is so much conversation surrounding this. So many videos and tweets insinuating that if you perpetually wear straight hair you are anti-black or hate yourself. I think those words are insightful, though they could do with nuance for those who go on the offensive when they hear them. The primary message that should be platformed is one of accepting your hair for what it is. Reaching a point of hair neutrality at the very least, where neither like nor dislike is prescribed to your hair, but rather an acceptance of its natural existence. Then you may accept that you canโt (and shouldnโt) change it because it grows like that as a representation of your true self. When this is acknowledged, links to anti-blackness will show themselves without being preached to from a place of critique. Firm words matter, but you canโt encourage someone to embrace their true self by starting off with โyou hate yourself.โ Some may hear this and understand, while others may need more of a breakdown.
How radical shall you be?
Itโs a blessing and a curse that Black women are afforded so many styles to try out. So many textures, designs, inspirations, techniques, the list goes on and it’s so admirable. But sometimes the wealth of hair options turns into analysis paralysis.The desire for a new hairstyle to uplift oneself and feel brand new directly ties to how Black women are expected to show up in society, and it is a representation of how our worth has been tied to the way we look.
Here, the intersection of Black femininity must be acknowledged – allusions of womanism rather than feminism. The standard is higher for Black women, and the pressure to be presentable, as enforced on us from everyone including the women closest to us and the men we may (seek to) date (a heteronormative perspective of course) leaves us continuously conscious of how we look (encompassing hair) and how we can keep the world engaged as we move through it, even if we do it silently.
I believe true freedom for afro hair occurs when a Black women no longer feel the need to โswitch it up.โ Yes, itโs nice to see yourself in a new look and feel renewed, but how many renewals must we undergo? Do we see that the return to renewal is an indication of its fleeting nature? What can we tie ourselves to that will actually last longer than a new hairstyle and leave our follicles in our scalps? Perhaps, the natural self. (Video from July 2024)
Rather than deciding what style to do next because I want something new, I challenge myself and anyone reading his to try and keep the same simple style for a while and see from where beneath the surface you can draw renewal. This isnโt to say that I will never switch it up and wear my hair in a new style again. Itโs instead a radical decision to look within myself for the joy that changing my hair brings me. That can come first and hair can come second.

While deciding what style to choose next we may end up feeling so low. We even talk about how we arenโt depressed; we just need to get our hair done! Well, what does that say about our wider state of being? I am tired of hair math and calculating backwards from my birthday what I may do with my hair. In reference to this TikTok screenshot, how about we just let our hair be, in its natural state?
This is a form of resistance for Black women. We must accept that there is no social benefit of wearing our hair more than anything else. We won’t get”further” because of it – we may actually get further with a straight wig. So how radical do you want to be? Would you like to wear your hair out anyway? Would you like to be the sole benefactor of your own liberation, or would you rather coast through life beneath a texture that doesn’t belong to you? Would you like your confidence to be tied to your true self? To embrace your natural hair is to chose the path of resistance and refuse to meet society’s standard of how a Black woman should be received. I think we need to be more radical about this than we have been in recent years.
Time
You may have read the above and clocked out thinking, sorry I donโt have the time. Well, thatโs where my thoughts get more radical. Considering how life moves and changes, we canโt always allocate the same amount of time to everything. For many, hair is included in this. In 2020 I read “Don’t Touch My Hair“ by Emma Dabiri, which opened my eyes to the provenance of Black hairstyling and inspired me to write an article about the relationship between Black hair and time. I rephrased my approach to it all by insisting that rather than my hair taking โtoo much timeโ to do, I give my hair the time that it requires. In its natural state, afro hair can require a bit more attention and patience than raking a comb through it and going about your day. In its native setting, hair care was creative, communal and ritualistic. And you could argue that it still is but certainly adapted to the 21st century. My point is that by being Black women adhering to western time structures, we are implants in a system that is not built to nurture the requirements of this natural element of the self โ hair.
I wrote that article in the pandemic as a recent grad, shielding because I was immunocompromised. I was not an NHS nurse with three children and a household to look after. I did have more time allocated to my hair. And when I entered the working world post-pandemic I saw how my approach could be seen as idealistic more than anything else. Yes, it is quicker to have your hair in cornrows and throw a wig on for your shift than style a braid-out. However, how much quicker is it to not put a wig on the cornrows at all? Or to shake out an afro, pat it into shape and step out the door? In other words, what ideas do we have in our heads when we insist that afro hair takes too long to style and fit around our busy lifestyles? Where has the simplicity gone? You can look to the mid-late 20th century when Black people had afros out. Or you can look to (pre) modernist Africa where braided styles were enough and not covered by a totally different texture. The bigger questions is, what is the simplicity we run from and why is it not good enough for us? It is due to expectations and influence.
Influence
Much like the girls in my class or an auntie in church asking when I am going to do my hair, there are expectations of how Black women are allowed to be present in society. Itโs a real shame to me that straight back cornrows are a foundation rather than the finished product. That an afro in its natural state out of the shower must be blow dried or braided to be styled and presentable the next day. (Pic from early 2024)

It particularly saddens me when we know these styles are also shunned by what we are taught are the preferences of Black men. That we feel childish with our hair in certain styles, or like we canโt get married or celebrate our birthdays in them. When did the disconnect return? This pseudo-avoidance of the natural state by virtue of relaxers, being a straight natural or undergoing keratin treatments truly washes away what it means to embrace our hair in its natural state, just for “ease”, to please others or feel self-confident.
I told myself a while ago that any man who doesnโt like my hair in its natural state should stay far away from me. Why should I want to be with someone that I canโt be free around? Itโs better to be alone and teach myself to speak about my hair positively, experience exposure therapy by going outside with it โnot doneโ and realise that I will make it home in one piece. Black women deserve partners that love them as they are. Whenever I see a Black woman with her hair out, in twists, cornrows or anything that requires low manipulation, I feel really happy and empowered. I can only hope that by doing the same I can empower other people.
I do not agree with regurgitating what society says about my hair as if it’s a belief I hold. Instead, I actively work against negative projections of afro hair because itโs just another way we are being kept in chains.

The more of us that wear our hair out the better, whether you have a big forehead, or your hair is short, fine, very thick or extremely coily. The more we see each other like this, in all states, the better. It just needs to be normalised among us. The more you wait for your hair to be long enough to show the world, the longer you will hold yourself back from feeling liberated. I donโt care for conversations saying itโs not that deep to not wear your hair out. I am in the business of everything being โthat deep.โ (Pic from June 2024)
What suits you?
โMy hair doesnโt suit meโ is a statement I just canโt get behind. I believe that a different hair colour could work well with your skin tone and that different styles complement your face shape more than others. But your hair not suiting you is not something I understand. This may be why many of us spend a lot of time in other textures too โ for the belief that something looser than what we have is more well-suited. But a certain type of dysmorphia occurs when we fail to see ourselves in our natural state every day. When our beauty ideals do not include natural hair and we only ever see being dressed up as when we are wearing looser textures or any form of extensions, etc, that is a problem, because we fail to recognise and accept ourselves.
What is more worth our time is investing in flipping that belief on its head by visiting a salon and getting a trim to start the hair journey from a good place. Investing in products that cater to your hairโs needs. Learning from others how to look after your hair. Taking baby steps towards being confident with it. It’s a journey. What I find captivating is the ability to see your hair on the same pedestal as any other style you have access to. It shouldnโt just be deemed a transition style covered with a bonnet on the way to the hairdresser. It should be the acceptable and embraced default. For the past two years I have been on a journey of wearing my natural hair out more than any other style โ being that a textured half wig, slick back with yaki ponytail, braids or anything else, because the more I see my own hair the more I am used to it and the less I feel to change, cover or add to it.


My hair three years apart. During this time I built confidence with my mini twists (and skin!).
Recommendations
One useful tip I’ve come across is embarking on the natural hair journey with a friend to build confidence together. Another way to change your thinking is to alter what you see on social media. I interact with natural hair content to let the algorithm know what I want to see, normalising afro hair in my online space and making it feel less alien to me. Once again, I am not against other hairstyles. I just think natural hair should be the centrepiece.
Iโd like to end with some simple and affordable products for anyone hoping to expand their regimen or start a journey with their hair.
- ORS Hair Mayonnaise – A great conditioner I’ve used my whole life
- As I am – Double Butter cream, rice water spray,tea tree itchy scalp care
- Cรฉcred edge drops – Helpful for edge regrowth
- The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Serum – Cheaper hair regrowth serum
- Nature Spell Rosemary Oil – Growth stimulant
- Afro Hair Candy leave-in conditioner – Preservative-free moisturiser
- Garnier banana hair food – Lightweight moisturiser
- TRESemmรฉ shampoo – Great clarifying shampoo
- Design Essentials hair mousse – Effective hold for styling
- Mielle coil sculpting custard – Adds nice coil to twists
- Flaxseed gel – Boil with water for 10 mins and sieve for a great pre-wash detangler
Thank you for reading!! I hope this inspired some thought.





















